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Thursday, March 25, 2010

Our journey to Spain, February 11 - 26, 2010

The occasion of our February, 2010 trip to Spain was my 70th birthday.   Why Spain, you might ask.

From November 1966 - December 1978, while in the US Navy, I was stationed at the US Naval Communications Station at La Base Naval de Rota, a Spanish base in Cadiz Providence, on the Atlantic Coast, not distant from the Straits of Gibraltar....

While there,  43 years ago, I purchased an automobile ( a Fiat) and traveled some 17,000 miles exploring the Andalusia Region of southern Spain.  Although always wanting to, I have never been back to see what changes have taken place. Spain was a dictatorship 43 years ago.  It is now a democratic monarchy.  Spain is now a member of the European Union. Spanish tourism has blossomed!   The economy has florished.  There has been a housing boom.

I wanted to see this, plus, enjoy the hospitality, the culture, engage with the locals, once more enjoy the food and drink.  Connie had never been to Spain.  For centuries Spain has been a significant center of  art,  artist, and sculpture.  I wanted Connie to see and experience all Spain has to offer..... 

We had a direct American Airlines flight from Miami... Except a slightly delayed departure and some severe turbulance mid way, it was a good flight...  As soon as one walks into Madrid's airport  international arrivals terminal you see, in my opinion,  an architect's modern master piece.  It is very large, clean, attractive and we think efficient..... 


We took a taxi to our central Madrid hotel; and we checked in...  After freshening up, we were ready to hit the street and explore Madrid....  First on our agenda , was The Prado Museum which houses the works of Velazquez, Rubens, Rembrandt, el Greco, Murillo, Sorolla and many others. 





We spent several hours going from floor to floor, exhibit to exhibit..  We dropped into the museum cafeteria for our first snack and refreshments in Spain.  Then we went back to see what we missed during the initial walk through.

After The Prado, we set out for two of Madrid's pedestrian cross roads, Puerto Del Sol and Plaza Mayor, either could be called the "Times Square" of Madrid.

We were people watching, window shopping, listening to the street musicians and getting into the life of the locals.



The symbol of Madrid is a bear sniffing a tree.  Legend has it that centuries ago a dispute arose over hunting rights on land owned by the church.  It was agreed that, while the church owned the soil citizens of
Madrid had the right to what as above it, namely the game.  Thus, Madrid acquired a symbol.

Finally, we made our way back to our hotel to get some sleep and make ready for our first full day in the Spanish capital.  


Panoramic tour of Madrid, tour of the Royal Palace and dinner at Cafe de La Opera

February 13, 2010 - A day of special significance !!!!

In the morning we boarded a Trapsatur luxury tour coach for a panoramic tour of Madrid...

  Today, eight gates from the old walled city of Madrid stand as monuments to the past.



Madrid,  Spain's capital city, seat of the countries monarchs and governement is home to 3.3 million people. It is a city of palaces, monuments, parks, churches, museums, universities, entertainment and commerce.




After the morning tour, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant, freshened up and met up with our tour guide for  a tour of Spain's Royal Palace.  We would only get to see 28 of the 2,800 rooms.




 

Photography was not allowed in the Royal Palace......the tour was impressive, the Palace is vast and lavish.  It is located on a bluff looking north toward a mountain range...The present King and Queen of Spain live in a more modest palace outside of Madrid. The Royal Palace is used for state occasions.

When asked why he does not live in this huge palace, the king was reported to have replied, "I don't want my eggs to get cold between the kitchen and dining room."   

We were fortunate that we booked the tour through a tour company. They seem to get preference over the general public which stand in very long lines to get in.

After the palace, our day wasn't done...it was just starting as far as I was concerned...because today was my 70th birthday and Connie had planned a special evening.

First, the Madrid Carnival celebration was about to start with parade passing under our Gran Via hotel room balcony......  How convenient !!!!



The birthday celebration was underway.... well wishing telephones calls from our children and my siblings back home, added to the day!  But wait !!! Connie had made plans for dinner for both of us at the 9:30 seating at Madrid's El Cafe de La Opera, a most unique and excellent restaurant....  We ate a sumptuous dinner while listening to operatic performances by five young and talented stars.  


                







This most enjoyable occasion was topped off by a "cumpleanos felices" wish along with champaign toast sang in spanish by the opera singers....What an evening... We left the restaurnat at 12:45 AM. Thank you Connie!

p.s. It is a small world! The opera singer Anna, behind my left shoulder, was born in the Bronx,  raised in Flushing and her family now lives in Babylon, LI. Anna  won a fellowship to study opera in Spain.  She  has sung in St. Agnes Cathedral,  Rockville Centre, LI, NY; and that day, she sang happy birthday to me in spanish!




Beyond Madrid - El Escorial, Valle de los Caidos and Toledo

On this day, we returned to the Trapstur Tour office for a bilingual guided luxury coach tour of  El Escorial and Valle de los Caidos in the morning and, Toledo in the afternoon.



The palace of San Lorenzo de El Escorial was built by King Felipe II between 1563 and 1584.  It contains a basilica, a monestary, a museum of art, a library, royal apatment and the royal pantheon where the funeral urns of  twenry six Spanish monarchs are kept.  Exploring the place with our tour guide was both intriguing and fascinating...


                   
After the tour we walked to the local bus station where we had hot "churros" pastries, with our hot chocolate before boarding the bus for a ride to del Valle de los Caidos, a massive momument to those that died in Spanish Civil War July 1936 - April 1939.
                                                                                                                                                                                                


The monument cross is 490 feet tall and can be seen for miles.  Below the cross  is a basilica carved  into the rock of the mountain by prisoners of war captured by Gen. Franco's army.  The basilica was closed for maintenance the day we were there. The remains of 40,000 soldiers killed in the civil war, from both sides,  
lie here out of sight of the public.   Gen. Franco is buried next to the basilica's high altar.

Some Spaniards find this monument too chilling a reminder of the civil war to visit.  Others find the vast size of the venue a rewarding experieince...  It is a moving site! 

We get back on the bus for the return to Madrid and lunch.  In the afternoon, we head south to the former capital of Spain, Toledo.



The walled city of Toledo is rich in history. The Romans built a fortress here, then, the Visogoths made Toledo their capital in the 6th century..Toledo has been a melting pot of Christians, Muslims and Jews as evident by the architecture of it buildings.


The massive Toledo Cathedral was built on the site of a 7th century church. Work began in 1236 and lasted 300 years.  It was completed in 1493.  Its bell tower dominates the skyline of  Toledo.



Our half day walking tour of  Toledo took us beyond the Cathedral, to the church of St. Tome.  There we found the El Greco painting "The burial of Count Orgaz,".  Then on to the old Jewish quarter with its narrow streets, the Sinagogue and the Church of San Juan de los Reyes.




View of the river Tagus from the Museum of sculptor Victorio Macho.

After a very long day of sighting seeing we were glad to get back on the bus for the return trip to Madrid.
Arriving in Madrid, we passed one of the cities football (soccer) stadiums where the fans were gathering for the big game tonight again rival Barcelona. Spain isn't just ancient history! 


Our leisure walking tour of Madrid

After two days of organized tours we decided to go out on our own and explore places the bus tours didn't have time for ..... 

After breakfast we headed, in a light snow fall, to Madrid's Cathedral de la Almudena.  Construction on this building began in 1879 but wasn't completed until 1993 when it was dedicated by Pope John Paul II.  The cathedral is the opposite end of the plaza from the Royal Palace, which we had toured three days previously ......

This "modern" cathedral is dedicated to Our Lady and there are numerous statues, paintings and stained glass windows of noted women in the history of the Church.  It is impressive in that respect alone...






While so much in Spain dates back centuries, this modern cathedral is also an example of  the young Spain.
We attended 11 AM Mass before exploring the basement crypt...

After the cathedral, we headed for the mercado (market) of San Miquel. This open air type market was first opened in 1916 and later renovated in 1999 and again in 2009. One may do their daily shopping as well eat tapas and drink vino well into the night at one of the 34 food stalls. It is great gathering place for hungry and thirsty tourists.





We walked our way back to our hotel, stopping enroute at El Corte Englis, Spain's "Macy's." We also stopped at the Official Madrid Tourist Welcome Center in Plaza Mayor where you can  check your e-mails
on one of  their computers, log in to the "hot spot" with your PC or smart phone  or ask questions, obtain maps, etc.



Dinner tonight was at Restaurante Botin aka the most ancient restaurant in the world,  founded in 1725.... of course, we had the house speciality, Roast Suckling Pig, a pitcher of  sangria and flan for desert......







Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Segovia


Learning there were no tour buses going to Segovia on this Monday, we took a local bus ..... we found it provided excellent service and was reasonably priced.  We departed from Madrid's North Station, which was a walk from our hotel.  Segovia is a one hour drive NW of  Madrid.  The Segovia bus station is a short walk from the tourist center which provides video presentations, maps, brochures and displays on the attractions of  Segovia.

Segovia is a most spectacular old town set high on a rocky spur surrounded by two rivers. It is the site of The Alcazar, a fairy-like middle ages castle that was rebuilt in 1862, that sits on a cliff.









Another attraction of Segovia is its gothic cathedral built in 1525.



Perhaps the most recognized landmark of Segovia is the Roman aqueduct built in the 1st century and used until the 19th century.

We enjoyed a most delightful afternoon meal at the Mason de Candida pictured to the right of the aqueduct.
The room we ate in was decorated by citations and certificates commerating visits by various government and military dignateries that  have eaten there. 

Pictured below are;

San Martin Church                               Typical Segovia Street                    Plaza de Medina del Campo



We returned to Madrid via bus and comparing notes and photographs of another adventuresome day en Espana.